south end april 13

Small today after the swell yesterday, the W wind knocked the swell down but it was rideable.  Only two guys out before I got there.  No one to hassle with and rode the log for an hour before I had to split.  Spotted some mullet in the surf so it won't be long before surfing time will have to be split with fishing time.  Later!

sw wind swell

A SW wind swell was working today but it was pretty drifty all along the island.  Holding position was next to impossible.  Most people out at the southend. 

what not to do before a swell.

April 5, 2011 Swell at Wrightsville Beach 
A crazy wind started blowing yesterday and there was no swell yet.  So I wandered down to CB skatepark to get a skate on.  At 9:30 there was only me and 3 other older guys in park.  The wind was howling 20-30kts SW and I was thinking of today.  Swellinfo was showing building seas all day and a wind switch around lunchtime.  Headhigh and offshore sounded good to me.  I decided to try and roll in.  Have not even attempted that yet as I have only been skating for 2.5 years since a 30+ year hiatus of flat ground and hill bombing on my old G&S Fiberflex.  I got the first one although it was somewhat wobbley.  After a few minutes I decided it was time to give it another try, bad idea, rear trucks locked up and I was eating concrete some four feet down in the flats.  My left wrist got torqued but did not hurt to bad.  I continued skating and after a while decided to give another shot.  I had to get back on that pony, as I tell my son, and give it another shot.  Success, although it was wobbley also.  Four hours later and my wrist was killing me.  This morning I could barely move it.  Greg at HotWax told me last year don't skate before a swell, I guess I should have listened to him. 
  As I check the WBlive beach cam there was a mess of a SW swell, easy head high and drifting mad.  The wind was still blowing SW 20-25 kts with gusts to 40 as the band of heavy shit barreled up the eastern seaboard, now it was just a waiting game for the wind switch.  That happened almost on cue and at 12 noon the wind was W but still howling in the 20+kt zone.  I went and looked at it and with a hurt wing decided to past as the drift was still strong and it still was not lining up on the falling tide.  I managed to get a window this evening and surfed til dark on the incoming tide and falling swell.  It still had some chest high sets coming and not to many people in one spot.  I didn't even notice the wrist.  But I probably won't try new shit before a swell again, but then skating is skating and if you ain't trying life is boring.  It's hell being 43.  Sorry for not having any swell pics, maybe next time.

springing

After several 20kt days of NE and then SE winds with some crazy drifts then wind laid and then went NW.  It started light this morning but I couldn't get there until mid-morning.  The wind had picked up the tide was starting to fall.  So it was killing the swell some but still fun for 58deg air and 53 in the water.  Not bad for March 7th.

Parking Bears

  



they're waiting



little something every now and then

March 1 is on the way and the parking meters, at Wrightsville Beach, are waiting.  At 2bucks an hour they are hungry after their long Winter nap.  Get out the wallets and enjoy the surf.  There were a couple guys out trying to enjoy the day of weakish rising tide swell.  

still bored

boredom

long exposure across the street

if you squint, it kinda looks like a face sort of, maybe?  boredom gets to ya sometimes.