Tuesday, April 5, 2011

what not to do before a swell.

April 5, 2011 Swell at Wrightsville Beach 
A crazy wind started blowing yesterday and there was no swell yet.  So I wandered down to CB skatepark to get a skate on.  At 9:30 there was only me and 3 other older guys in park.  The wind was howling 20-30kts SW and I was thinking of today.  Swellinfo was showing building seas all day and a wind switch around lunchtime.  Headhigh and offshore sounded good to me.  I decided to try and roll in.  Have not even attempted that yet as I have only been skating for 2.5 years since a 30+ year hiatus of flat ground and hill bombing on my old G&S Fiberflex.  I got the first one although it was somewhat wobbley.  After a few minutes I decided it was time to give it another try, bad idea, rear trucks locked up and I was eating concrete some four feet down in the flats.  My left wrist got torqued but did not hurt to bad.  I continued skating and after a while decided to give another shot.  I had to get back on that pony, as I tell my son, and give it another shot.  Success, although it was wobbley also.  Four hours later and my wrist was killing me.  This morning I could barely move it.  Greg at HotWax told me last year don't skate before a swell, I guess I should have listened to him. 
  As I check the WBlive beach cam there was a mess of a SW swell, easy head high and drifting mad.  The wind was still blowing SW 20-25 kts with gusts to 40 as the band of heavy shit barreled up the eastern seaboard, now it was just a waiting game for the wind switch.  That happened almost on cue and at 12 noon the wind was W but still howling in the 20+kt zone.  I went and looked at it and with a hurt wing decided to past as the drift was still strong and it still was not lining up on the falling tide.  I managed to get a window this evening and surfed til dark on the incoming tide and falling swell.  It still had some chest high sets coming and not to many people in one spot.  I didn't even notice the wrist.  But I probably won't try new shit before a swell again, but then skating is skating and if you ain't trying life is boring.  It's hell being 43.  Sorry for not having any swell pics, maybe next time.